NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana)

After leaving the glitz and glamour of Graceland behind it was back into the CuRVy, turn on Mrs G and on to Interstate 55 to head toward the end of the Mississippi. Even though our original intention was to follow Highway 61, "the Blues Highway" all the way from Thunder Bay to New Orleans practicalities took precedence this time. 

In this "land of the automobile" the roads are wonderful and the Interstate Highways are quick so we were soon crossing the 36km (22 mile) Manchac Swamp Bridge and heading toward our motel. Hmmmm either the Super 8 New Orleans had moved or some fool had put the wrong address into Mrs G. The latter proved to be true!

The Motel wasn't new but it was reasonably clean and comfortable, it also had a nice breakfast and a pool (necessary in the heat) and most importantly had organised a shuttle bus to get guests to the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival http://www.nojazzfest.com/ Was that to prove to be a great help!!! 

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is big, no that's not really an accurate description it's actually REALLY VERY BIG!!!! And that bigness started with the line leading to the gate and didn't finish all day.

The Festival is held at the Fair Grounds Racecourse and with 12 stages there was plenty to see and hear and get around. For that reason we had organised a wheelchair which proved to be the only way the apiarist could have survived (thanks to the strength and endurance of the Educator). 

First problem was the gate we had entered was about 1 kilometre (900 yards) from the wheelchair pick-up point by the route we took. That problem overcome (thanks War Vets) and away we went....

Keeping warm wasn't going to be an issue and neither was variety and or quality of music. So what did we start with none other than the Peoples Health Economy Hall Tent (Phister Sisters) and why did we go there, #1 they were in the first tent we passed and #2 they were great!

From there we decided to head to the Acura Stage which was the "main" stage. Lots of others had thought that this was the place to be but then when the lineup for that stage was  "Jumpin" Johnny Sansone, Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, Dr John and the Lower 911 and some guy called Bruce. Hmmm no wonder people were running to set up  their chairs  when they got through the gate and security. 

With the disabled section fairly full and in full sun we looked at other options. Had we been short changed? With 66 acts appearing over the day, I think not!

Off we went to one of the undercover or more accurately undertent stages where not only was it cooler but there were seats and designated seats for wheelchairs. Bonus!! And luckily for us it was the Blues Stage which proved to be where Bruce spent the majority of his day.

That is apart for a few excursions to the Gospel Tent (New Orleans Spiritualettes and later Bishop Sean Elder & the Mount Hermon Baptist Church Mass Choir) , Congo Square Stage (Lindego of Reunion Island) and the Sheraton New Orleans Fais Do-Do Stage (Steve Riley & the Mamou Playboys). 

Food was varied and abundant and did I mention that beer was cheap and cold!!!! And every hour or so there was a Parade by the Mardi Gras Indians. 
Interesting group...

In the end we returned to the Blues and while Bruce stayed and listened to all of Gary Clark Junior (WOW) and then Tab Benoit, Julie went off in search of another Bruce. Known by many as the Boss.

While I was comfortably seated 15 rows from the stage, Julie was feeling like one of 50,000 sardines in a overheated can!!!! 

Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY!!!!! 

Was it worth the heat and the crowds and the $50 that we each paid for our tickets? 

Yes, 

YES, 

YESSSSSSSSS!!!

 And would we go again.......... In a heartbeat 

Getting home was another adventure as the shuttle bus took us on an adventurous tour of New Orleans before returning us to the cool of the Motel pool. Mmmm a nice cool relaxing end to a day of great music!

Revitalised next morning it was back into the CuRVy and into New Orleans. Mrs G safely deposited us in a car park adjacent to the New Orleans Visitors Information Centre where we booked tickets for a bus tour of the city and adjacent areas. 

Normally we shy away from bus tours but in this case we took the easy option and that choice proved worthwhile as we were given the opportunity to have a good (totally stress free) look around the city especially for Julie who is usually concentrating on the traffic. 

I'll let the pictures tell the story but there is incredible variation between the French Quarter, Downtown, the Cemeteries and the area worst affected by Hurricane Katrina. The city is recovering due to some innovative programs but it will take a long time.

 Following the tour food was now on the agenda and we had been told of a New Orleans Institution where we stopped next. It was to Cafe Du Monde http://www.cafedumonde.com/main.html for an order of trois Beignet. Actually they are doughnut like pastries covered in a mountain of icing sugar. Julie loved them, though 3 was beyond even her capabilities. For Bruce it was to another Cafe for a bowl of gumbo. 

Part of this North American odyssey was to follow the length of the Mississippi River and we chose a Paddle Steamer for the last few of the 4070km (2530 miles) that the river travels. It was a better option than swimming or paddling and besides there was a great southern buffet on offer not to mention a great sunset. 

Our final part of our New Orleans Adventure was on the way to Natchez when we headed to Cajun Encounters for a Honey Island Swamp Tour. Nice way to wind up three great days but we didn't realise alligators, even alligators called Brutus ate marshmallows!

 

And finally to the end of the Great River Road. What a Trip!!!!!!!

Memphis

Crossed into the strangely named/ pronounced Arkansas (how do you get such different pronunciations as Arkansas and Kansas) from Missouri and passed by great soil being tilled on every farm we passed. From what we were seeing it is a lovely State no matter how it's pronounced.

Found (thanks Mrs G) the Econo Lodge in downtown Memphis which for a Friday seemed really quiet. The driver and the somewhat nervous navigator were happy about that. Hotel was OK but the location was great.

We noticed a "gathering" in Court Square from our room so we started our investigation of downtown by "inviting" ourselves to the Law Week festivities. Even though we aren't really Lawyers we do know a few (hi Maina, hi Rumpole) and we do know how to behave in society (lol) so we fitted in very well and...... The beer, food and wine that were on offer along with the great blues band that were part of the function finished the package!!!!

Legal festivities were coming to a close and with walking sticks in hand we headed off looking for Beale Street. We weren't successful in finding Beale Street but we did find  fabulous music and we found a great place to enjoy it when we discovered the Centre for Southern Folklore. http://www.southernfolklore.com/ Sat down got a beer and a wine just in time for the Side Street Steppers. A great sound from a four piece band made up of 2 talented  married couples. The bass player was as good as we've heard anywhere.

One amazing addition to the night was meeting a fellow Australian. We Aussies do like to travel ...... and do like music!!! 

Now for the fun part....Walking back to the hotel. Oh well the good news was that we made it and the Apiarist's legs, or more specifically his right one, survived OK.

Next morning away early due to a meeting with the "King". 

Yes, we were off to Graceland. As expected there were others that were doing their "Elvis" thing but to be honest it was a really interesting place to see and well worth the trip, the time and the walk. Two things that surprised us were that Graceland isn't huge and neither was Elvis. From the size of his suits he couldn't have been over 6 feet tall and (in his early days) he was really slim. And didn't he get some awards....

In case you didn't know that's Elvis on the left!!!

Next stop NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana)

Missouri

America's Home Town

Julie and I, like many many others, read and enjoyed "The Adventures of Tom Sawyer" and the main reason to stay in Hannibal, Missouri was to see if any of the places that are alluded to in Mark Twain's books actually exist. 

I'm sure they do and although the town itself is charming, calling almost everything "Mark Twain" this or that is a little bit over the top. Never mind I'm sure we will revisit the books!

We've pretty much relied on hotels.com for booking our accommodation and by and large they've been pretty good hotels. Our Hannibal accommodation was "how do you put it" ?" Hmmmmm...... interesting"!!! It was a hotel that had been very good and quite trendy in the 70's, but the 70's were around the last time that proper maintenance had been done. However the pool was nice and there weren't many people around so we had the whole area to ourselves.


Fun times!!!!!
















Breakfast was  similar. "Hmmmmmmm......... interesting" but we survived! 

After another look around Hannibal we headed further south through increasingly productive farmland where, it seemed, every farmer was on his tractor. It is after all spring here and the soil that was being turned over looked wonderful.

St Louis was our destination for the next 2 nights and like many places we will be travelling to  we are not really able to spend enough time to fully explore any place. But we are certainly "giving it a go"!! 

Arriving early enough for an early book in was certainly an advantage and after unpacking we headed into what was a quiet and easy place to get around. 

First stop was at the structure that dominates St Louis, the Gateway Arch where we booked a tour of the Arch for the next day at 10.30am. Even though we are travelling away from school holiday/vacation time this is a very popular place to visit  in St Louis. The Arch is only one part of the precinct and the gardens that surround it and the interpretive centre at it's base make the Arch complete.

Watched a film on the Lewis & Clark Expedition that set out from St Louis in 1806, Wikipedia says.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition, also known as the "Corps of Discovery Expedition" (1804–1806), was the first transcontinental expedition to the Pacific coast undertaken by the United States. Commissioned by President Thomas Jefferson, it was led by two Virginia-born veterans of Indian wars in the Ohio Valley, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. Their objectives were both scientific and commercial – to study the area's plants, animal life, and geography, and to learn how the region could be exploited economically.^[1] 

This expedition played a huge part in the history of the United States. I am astounded at the bravery and commitment that they and the men the one woman Sacagawea (look her up if you want to read about a remarkable woman). 

Leaving the history and botany behind we headed further into the old town in search of liquid refreshment because as all good travellers know you must keep your fluids up.

But you can't survive on just a few drinks so we left the historic area Laclede's Landing in search of some food and entertainment. About a 3 minute drive back past the Arch and we were at Oysters on Broadway for interesting food, cool drinks, good music in a great place.

A well deserved sleep followed and we were amazed by the sight in the dining room. It had been overwhelmed by hordes of high school students who were studying!!! The students were part of one of the many teams that were in St Louis  for the FIRST Robotics Championships. More on that later...

Breakfast was made interesting and delicious by having the chef explain just what "Breakfast Pepper Gravy and Biscuits" and "Grits" are. What they are is a good way to start a day.

Now it was off to CLIMB the ARCH but before we climbed it we watched a film on how it was built. Having satisfied ourselves that the structure was sound we climbed into the pod elevator and headed on up. 

WOW!!!!  

   

The WOW factor with the view from the top is amazing. As we descended I took a moment to thank one of the guides who, noting that I was walking with a cane, had suggested that we use car #1 which would save quite a few steps. She was a person with some understanding of living with some disability (she has Cerebral Palsy) and I was glad of her advice.

Next stop was a factory. Now some may ask why after going to the heights of St Louis we would want to tour a factory.  

However this wasn't a  tour of ANY factory it was of the Anheuser- Busch factory where they make Bud, Bud Light, Michelob and many, many varieties of BEER!!! After surviving the excellent tour of the factory we even survived the excellent "tasting room"!!! And in the Far South Coast SLS tradition it took a long time to leave the room when the beer is cold and free.................


And yes this is the home of the Budweiser Clydesdales and he was our favourite

We spoke earlier of the studious group at breakfast. We had decided to cheer them on so off we went to the FIRST Robotics Competition. This amazing experience was held at the Edmund Jones Dome which is the home ground of the St Louis Rams in the NFL and has been the venue for concerts for minor Pop Groups including U2 and The Rolling Stones. Great venue, great fun!!!

Next stop was the renovated Union Station where a disused piece of property (a railway station) has been turned into an stylish entertainment/ shopping/ eating precint. 

The last picture is of the "Whispering Arch". Built for looks but works amazingly!!!


Another varied day was drawing to a close but we still had to look after our physical well-being and ensure that our calorific and liquid intake was sufficient. So it was back to...........

Chilcoot Pass Reunion

After one more Winona look at the Mississipi we left for the shortest drive on the trip so far and for the opportunity to meet with a friend the Apiarist had made while travelling in Alaska and the Yukon in 1980. It's been an interesting journey since then but this blog is about a journey through Canada and the USA this year!




While it wasn't going to be a long journey in distance the Educator and the Apiarist have a history of making short trip trips into oddysees so we headed off down Highway 61. This day would see us cross the Mississippi numerous times, travel through 3 states, get lost, eat great smoked carp and pickled catfish, get caught up in roadworks and get to enjoy a late dinner at the River Pilot in Le Claire, Iowa. 

So into Wisconsin and into beautiful dairy country. Just a pity the Swank/ Jelinek diet won't allow dairy.......

Ever since we crossed into the USA we've been amazed by how clean and tidy the roadsides are. This cleanliness seems to come about because of families, service groups and businesses who sponsor and carry out the tidying. Very nice!!!!

 


We stopped and bought smoked carp and pickled catfish from E & P Fisheries in New Albin Iowa when we saw an advertising sign on the roadside and ate an interesting and tasty lunch at a park by the river and the railway.

I was hoping for both a train and a riverboat to come by but maybe that was just a dream...

As we were somewhat time constrained we pushed on and were doing quite well until we were held up by some roadworks. Mmmmmm what to do? We should have bought that cell (mobile) phone earlier....We did have an interesting talk with the "stop and go girl" who owns a pet skunk????

But we did make it to Le Claire (almost) on time and we had a great meal the Faithful Pilot with Galen and Frances. And Bruce and Galen had an enjoyable time of reminiscing about a wonderful walk many years ago..... 

 




 

The river expands

Having been to the source the next move was all downhill, or at least it was all downriver....... And before long the stream we could have walked across was resembling the wide brown river we had been expecting.

 

All the way the CuRVy (and the pilots) had been following the instructions of Mrs Garvin (our GPS). 

And we'd been doing what we wanted and following Highway 61!!!!!!!!

Although the drive through Minnesota started through forest with the occasional farmhouse as we moved further along our journey the cleared space around farmhouses expanded with only occassional trees at the edge of beautiful farmland. Driving past Minneapolis and Saint Paul we headed further into productive farmland and along working river.

And as we found our motel in Winona I guess you could say life was pretty good.............